The Spencer Jacket

Here's how the jacket turned out - I'm really pleased with it actually, it feels lovely to wear and very snug fitting without being too tight.

I used a sage green corduroy, interlined with cotton sateen and lined with a sage green polyester 'mock silk' - whoops! I really caved on this - I was planning to use natural fabrics only but there was no silk available in the colour I wanted so I decided to go with the lovely shiny polyester. It was a nightmare to work with though, so serves me right. Looks great though.

I knew the jacket would be a challenge but all Nick's help (endless fittings and pinnings) was worth it! For the collar facing I used some heavy duty canvas left over from a harpsichord cover, and with 2 pieces of rigilene boning I got the 'standup' look I wanted. I had to re-do the waistband as it was originally too thick. Looking at the proportions in my reference book I knew it had to be daintier.

The sleeves were tricky - I cut my own pattern pieces because the actual pattern was simple straight sleeves. Unfortunately I managed to make one arm just a bit too tight - enough to notice - so I ended up having to buy more fabric to re-make the sleeve. I also messed up the piping on one arm, getting the join at the front rather than somewhere less noticeable! Nevertheless I loved some of the details like the button cuffs, the diamond shaped back and the peplum. It took a while to get the button placement correct so that the the bodice sat smoothly - once again I'm indebted to Saira Foden for her advice. Saira is a mine of fantastic knowledge about dressmaking, tailoring, historical costume and general tips and tricks. Her shop The-Stitchery has become like a second home to me and it's where I bought all the fabrics and notions I needed for this project.

Comments

[Ruth]

You have done a wonderful job on the jacket and dress!